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#12 (permalink) |
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Industry Artist
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Yeah, probably. I was thinking about doing a separate one for spec but I don't know if I have enough experience with spec maps (well, coloured spec maps) to pretend to be any sort of authority on the subject :P
Although the spec maps done in that way usually aren't *quite* as heinous as the normal maps... |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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yes, yes, I know, i was just point out all the three possible ways of generating a normal map on my previous post!
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Hélder Pinto ~ Level Artist |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Industry Artist
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I said you should make a height map that you turn into a normal map. The height map is what you feed into crazybump/nVidia/xNormal - not the diffuse.
If it's a complex model that you can't paint easily, then it's very likely that you'll get even worse results (unless, like I mentioned, it's a really noisy and relatively flat texture anyway - like earth or rocks - and even then you'll get better results from sculpting out the major shapes to bake that). |
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#16 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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I still would like to know how you made the heightmap for the shoe (in your tutorial), assuming that you didn't paint it in by hand. |
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#18 (permalink) |
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Industry Artist
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Yes, the shoe height map is hand-painted.
The trick here is that I used a few layer blending effects like inner and outer glow. That helped give the effect that the stitching has been sunken into the surface (as is it's binding down padded material). And on a few other bits to ensure that they look nicely padded and rounded when it gets converted to a normal map. I could probably have put some more of that detail into the high res mesh to get a better result, really, but it was faster and easier to do it in Photoshop :P It was then overlaid onto a much more simple normalmap that was baked from a high-res model model (the baked normals represented complexly curved surfaces - pretty much impossible to draw by hand into a height map), using the technique I linked to above in the Project Offset blog. If your diffuse texture is hand-painted, too, as mine was, it becomes a lot easier to lift parts of it and alter them into a height map, so you should be keeping your layers nicely organised for that. Essentially remove all of the lighting and add in anything else that gets lost in the transition and then you can start to vary the brightnesses to put it together as a height map. So my diffuse texture actually contains two folders, one for the diffuse texture itself and one that's my height map, created from just duplicating layers from the diffuse texture and altering them to make a height map, which I can then copy/paste into my normal map. For really complex photo-based stuff, you might want to try overlaying the diffuse back on top of your height map really faintly (after removing all of the lighting you can) so you can reflect some sort of detail in the derived normal map that would just be too tedious to paint in. |
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#19 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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Ah I see basically what it does is increases the range of every channel by dividing it in 'negative' and 'positive' layers and disable the negative blues. I havent really read everything on that page.. downloaded the action and checked what it did.. pretty nifty! ![]() |
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